Introduction
Medellín’s journey from a modest colonial settlement to Colombia’s second-largest city is best understood through the evolution of its distinctive neighborhoods. Each district tells its own story of cultural heritage, architectural innovation, and social transformation. Did you ever want to learn more about the history of Medellín? Let’s explore some of the most emblematic areas within the Aburrá Valley and discover how they’ve shaped the identity of Colombia’s most enviable city. We will be looking at El Poblado, El Centro (La Candelaria & Prado) and Laureles. Don’t think I’ve forgotten about Envigado. I’ll be covering that in a separate article as it’s technically not part of Medellín but rather the greater Medellín metropolitan area (it’s a separate municipality).
El Poblado: From Humble Origins to Luxury Living
The story of El Poblado, Medellín’s most affluent sector, although largely shaped by the arrival of the Spanish, begins long before their arrival, when indigenous groups, chiefly the Aburraes inhabited the fertile valley – hence the name “Aburrá Valley”. Evidence traces them to these lands as far back as the 5th century. The name “Aburrá” derives from their language and means “painters”, likely due to their distinct painting decorations.
In 1616, Spanish conquistador Francisco de Herrera y Campuzano founded San Lorenzo de Aburrá, marking the first European settlement in what would become Medellín. The area was chosen for its strategic location near the Poblado Creek (Quebrada La Poblada) and fertile soil, which the established Aburrá tribes had long been working for maize, beans, and cotton. The Quebrada Poblada is the stream that runs through Provenza & Lleras.
FUN FACT: Few visitors to the bustling El Poblado Square realize they’re standing on such historic ground. This exact spot, once known as San Lorenzo de Aburrá, marked the first European foothold in what would become modern-day Medellín.
The story of Medellín’s founding carries a complex legacy. While Spanish colonization established the framework for today’s metropolis, it simultaneously messed up the valley’s original inhabitants – the Aburraes – an unfortunate bunch whose communities, culture, and traditions were tragically displaced from their ancestral lands.
Under Spanish rule, the Aburraes endured multiple tragedies: forced labor in mines, subjugation under feudal systems, and exposure to European diseases against which they had no immunity. The combination of harsh working conditions, systematic oppression, and deadly epidemics eventually led to their extinction-level decline in the valley they once called home.
Yet the story of the Aburraes didn’t end entirely. Their legacy lives on in the genetic heritage of today’s Medellínenses. The people from Medellín are Paisas – perhaps one of the strongest cultural/genetic identities in Colombia. Modern DNA studies reveal that many residents of Medellín carry indigenous ancestry from the Aburraes, a testament to the enduring connection between past and present, even in the face of historical trauma. Paisa’s wouldn’t possess their enviable looks and charm without them!
El Poblado Was Marginalized During the 18th and 19th Centuries
Although El Poblado was the founding site of Spanish colonization in the Aburrá Valley in 1616, by 1675, the Spanish administration decided to move the center of activity to a new village at what is now Berrío Square (in modern day El Centro). This move was part of a broader strategy to separate indigenous populations from mestizos and mulattos, as mandated by a colonial law. So what did this mean for El Poblado? It meant that after the relocation, El Poblado remained a lesser-developed area compared to the new center. The focus of economic and social activities shifted to Berrío Square, which became the hub for affluent families and commercial activities and remained so until the later half of the 20th century.
Instead, El Poblado remained a strictly agricultural area, providing food supplies to support the growing population and nearby gold mining activities. This agricultural dependency limited its urban development during that period.
From Coffee Fields to Luxury Living
In 1845, the area that would become El Poblado was formally established as the parish of San José del Poblado, denoting its transition from a scattered settlement to an organized community. The parish centered around a main plaza (today’s Parque El Poblado) with a basic grid of streets extending outward. During this period, the landscape was dominated by expansive rural estates, or “fincas,” whose names would later become develop into the city’s most tourist-friendly neighborhoods – Provenza, Manila, and Patio Bonito just to name a few. You can read more about Provenza’s history here.
The 1950s marked the beginning of a pretty dramatic shift in Medellín’s social geography. The city’s elite began looking south again, coming full circle to where Medellín first took root centuries earlier. But rather than just a simple change of address – this was an exodus driven by growing concerns over downtown’s transformation. As the city center became increasingly congested and later plagued by the shadows of narco-violence and terrorism (thanks Pablo), wealthy families sought refuge in the tranquil southern reaches of the Aburrá Valley.
The twist of fate is almost poetic – the same southern territory that once hosted the city’s first settlement was now becoming its future. Families fleeing the chaos of downtown found solace in El Poblado’s spacious plots and quiet streets, transforming former coffee estates into luxury developments. This migration wasn’t just about escaping problems; it was about reimagining what urban living could be in Medellín. The area’s rolling hills and abundant greenery, an area that once made it inaccessible and therefore unattractive, now offered a stark contrast to the concrete jungle that downtown had become. Even today, despite ever growing development, El Poblado looks and feels tucked away under its verdant canopy. Greenery and nature are everywhere!
El Poblado is today the city’s most affluent comuna. Despite being one of the largest and its name (The Populated) – El Poblado is not the most populous comuna of the city and boasts a relatively low population density thanks to the prevalence of larger homes, green spaces and luxury living standards. El Poblado comprises 22 neighborhoods spanning 1,400 hectares.
So what about El Centro?
Downtown… El Centro, the city center – easily the area of Medellin that elicits the greatest range of feelings, from awe to adrenaline. It’s an area that, and let’s be honest here, seems to have seen better days. That’s not to say it’s an area that should be avoided. In fact, it has always been an integral component of the tourist trail. Obviously! There is nowhere else more steeped in the city’s history, both uplifting yet incredibly challenging, to say the least.
That’s why though, the city’s greatest landmarks are located in the heart of downtown. Unlike El Poblado where you’ll find Medellin’s current prowess on display, El Centro is where you go to discover the boom of the city’s past; its heritage and identity. Yes, things may look a bit ‘rough’ these days, but there is a concerted effort to revitalize the area and capitalize on its rich culture and history.
The establishment of Medellín's center (El Centro)
In 1646, due to a colonial law mandating the separation of indigenous people from mestizos and mulattos, the colonial administration began constructing a new town in the Aná area, which is now El Centro. This new settlement was named “Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria de Aná” and eventually would become the heart of Medellín. The Minor Basilica of Our Lady of Candelaria, a central landmark and the city’s first cathedral, was started in this period and rebuilt at the end of the 18th century.
By 1674, Medellín, now located in the Aná area, became the provincial capital of Antioquia. This designation marked the beginning of significant development in the valley, with El Centro emerging as the hub of economic, social, and administrative activities. The area around what is now Berrío Square (Plaza Berrío) and the Santa Elena Creek became the focal point of the city. Something that remains true today, geographically speaking.
It was during the 19th century, when Medellín transformed into a dynamic commercial center, initially exporting gold and later becoming a major producer and exporter of coffee. This is when the city’s infrastructure developed, with the first development plans and censuses being implemented in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The city’s population grew steadily, and by the early 20th century, Medellín was undergoing an industrial revolution, attracting farmers from various regions of Antioquia.
Medellín has long been regarded as the “heart of Colombia’s textile industry,” a reputation that dates back to the early 20th century. A symbol of this industrial heritage is the Coltejer Building, which remains the tallest structure in Medellín, standing at 175m. Completed in 1972, this iconic skyscraper (located downtown) was designed to resemble a sewing machine needle, representing the textile company Coltejer and the industry it embodies. Founded by Alejandro Echavarría in 1907, Coltejer is one of the most important textile companies in Colombia and the largest textile complex in Latin America, and continues to play a pivotal role in the city’s economic growth and industrial development. El Centro’s skyline reflects much of the development that occurred throughout the 20th century.
By the mid-20th century, the ‘golden era’ of La Candelaria (Downtown) came to an end. From the 1960s, Medellín experienced rapid urbanization, leading to overpopulation and the expansion of informal settlements on the valley slopes. This period was marked by significant social and economic challenges, including the influx of rural migrants fleeing violence and poverty, which contributed to the city’s complex urban landscape.
Today, the areas constituting downtown have seen better days, although things seem to be on the up. El Centro in Medellín is undergoing a significant renaissance. The local government has committed to revitalizing this historic area through various initiatives. Key projects include the restoration of iconic public spaces such as Parque Berrío, development of new public spaces altogether such as the Parque de las Luces, as well as the creation of green corridors to embellish the urban environment. New trendy bars, hostels, and cultural venues are also being established, attracting more foreigners and locals alike to the area.
These efforts reflect a broader strategy of social urbanism, aimed at improving the quality of life and fostering a more inclusive and vibrant downtown district. As a result, El Centro is once again becoming a desirable and dynamic part of the city for Colombians and foreigners alike. For those willing to venture, El Centro is very affordable and rewards the frugal.
Medellín's Wealthiest Neighboorhood... Once upon a time
While on the topic of El Centro and its fall from grace, it would be wrong to not talk about Prado – a neighborhood that is very much part of the downtown area. Founded in 1926 by Medellín’s wealthiest residents, Prado was designed to emulate European colonial and Belle Époque architecture. The area was transformed into a majestic neighborhood with grand townhouses and leafy avenues, inspired by the travels of these affluent individuals to Europe. By the mid-20th century, Prado had become an exclusive enclave known for its elegant homes and sophisticated lifestyle.
However, as industrialization surged and thousands of Colombians moved to Medellín, the wealthy inhabitants began relocating to more peaceful areas like Laureles and El Poblado, leaving their grand homes behind. This exodus led to a decline in the area, with Prado’s mansions falling into disrepair and the neighborhood becoming part of the bustling downtown district of La Candelaria, marked by increased social problems such as crime, prostitution, and drug addiction.
Fighting the decline!
In 2009, the area was officially designated as a heritage conservation sector, with 261 of its buildings recognized as heritage properties under the Heritage Protection Plan. This move has helped preserve the area’s rich architectural legacy.
The neighborhood is home to several iconic landmarks, including the Egyptian Palace (Palacio Egipcio), built in 1928 by Fernando Estrada, an eye doctor with a passion for Egyptian culture. Another standout is the Fine Art Palace (Palacio de Bellas Artes), a stunning art deco building designed by Nel Rodriguez.
Fortunately, the historic Prado neighborhood in Medellín has received some much needed TLC under the watch of various city mayors, previously elected Daniel Quintero and current mayor Federico Gutierrez. One such example is the addition of a 5,450m square recreational park built in 2021. This is the first park/green space in Prado for several decades. A nice feature of the park is that many of its features were crafted with recycled materials used within the old mansions and properties throughout Prado.
Want to visit Prado? Take precautions. Remain vigilant – the area is home to many drug addicts and others in extremely poor living conditions (known locally as ‘indigentes’). La Candelaria experiences the city’s highest levels of homicides and robbery. If you’re new to Medellín, it’s not wise to venture out without somebody who you can trust and who knows the area well.
I have been to Prado a handful of times and each time its always fascinating as I appreciate the way it takes me back to a different era of the city; all the remnants of opulence from the 20th century, which can still be seen clearly in the abandoned buildings. The juxtaposition of the homes and their rough, ‘rugged’ surroundings is striking. Prado will never see its former glory days but I think it does have a bright future ahead.
Moving onto the Story of 2023's coolest neighborhood: Laureles
Laureles, Comuna 11, is my favorite area of the city: flat, green, central, and exceptionally well-designed. It feels like to me, the pinnacle of urban Paisa living. Unlike El Poblado which boasts a heavy touristic atmosphere, Laureles strikes a perfect balance: it feels organized and comfortably upper-middle class, yet maintains a down-to-earth, cozy atmosphere. I’m not alone regarding my esteem for Laureles – in 2023 it made the rounds when Time Out placed it at the top of its index of the world’s coolest neighborhoods.
In the 1930s and 1940s, while El Centro remained the heart of Medellín, the city began to expand beyond its traditional boundaries (before the exodus of El Centro). The Employees Cooperative of Antioquia designed a new neighborhood called Laureles, initially conceived as “The Citadel of the Employee.” Promiment architect of the time, Pedro Nel Gómez was heavily influenced by his inspiring trips to European cities such as Paris.
Gómez’s design was notably influenced by the French concept of a “Garden City”, inspired by the works of architects like Le Corbusier. This approach departed from the conventional Spanish grid-like street patterns, instead featuring wide, tree-lined avenues and a unique circular street design. The circular and transversal streets, which make Laureles a navigational nightmare for newcomers and taxi drivers, were inspired by Gómez’s studies in Italy and his desire to replicate the layout of some residential areas he saw there.
Even today, there is no neighborhood in Medellín nor Colombia quite like Laureles. Back then, the departure from the conventional Spanish tradition of grid-like streets centred around a church was a groundbreaking change and added to the allure of the district.
The name “Laureles” comes from the abundant laurel trees in the area which were planted around the time of the Comuna’s inception. Today, many of those same laurels are extant giants which wonderfully embellish the streets below with their thick, colorful canopies. Laureles was initially intended for working-class families, but thanks to its eccentric, efficient design, eventually attracted professionals and the upper class of Medellín. This shift turned the neighborhood into one of the most desirable places to live, known for its modern amenities, educational institutions, and cultural activities.
Speaking of which, Laureles quickly emerged as a cultural hub with the establishment of institutions like the Teatro Metropolitano and the Universidad Pontificia Bolivariana. The neighbourhood, as convoluted as its circular streets may appear, all orbit the focal attraction which is still UPB – one of the best universities in not just Medellín but all of Colombia. Follow any of its ‘carreras’ south and that is exactly where you will end up.
Of course, during the tail-end of the 20th century, Laureles, like the rest of the city, was affected by the waves of violence plaguing Medellín. Although Laureles fortunately remained relatively unaffected compared to some other areas of the city, it is worth noting that the infamous drug kingpin Pablo Escobar saw out his last days in hiding in the Los Olivos neighborhood, which is within the broader area of Laureles.
On December 2, 1993, Escobar was cornered by the Colombian National Police in his inconspicious safehouse in Los Olivos. After a police chase across the rooftops, Escobar and his bodyguard, Álvaro de Jesús Agudelo (“El Limón”), were fatally shot. The exact address of this pivotal moment is: Carrera 79B #45D-94.
Green as it gets?
Here in Colombia, the verdancy of a neighborhood often corresponds with how developed and safe it feels, and Laureles stands as a testament to this principle. Far from a grey concrete landscape, this district encapsulates Medellín’s progressive shift towards “ecoliving,” positioning the city among the world’s most sustainable urban environments. Notably, Laureles was conceived with greenery as a fundamental design principle – way back in 20th century – before green urban design was the in thing. Let’s not forget, Laureles is named after a tree. Pretty forward thinking for the time.
The neighborhood boasts an extraordinary urban forest, with approximately 30% of its area blanketed by a lush tree canopy, making it one of Medellín’s most verdant districts. Two signature parks (and two of my favorite – Primer Parque de Laureles and Segundo Parque de Laureles – anchor the community’s green spaces, offering residents and visitors alike the perfect place to eat out, socialize and spend on leisure.
Excerpt from our previous article on Laureles
Below, you’ll find an excerpt from an article in which we already cover the history of Laureles a depth:
“In the early 1940s, during a period of remarkable expansion in Medellín, what is now the western district was an undeveloped expanse adorned with artificial laurel trees. This distinctive landscape contributed to the district’s present name, having previously been referred to as ‘Otra Banda’ or ‘the other side.’ Memo Ánjel, a researcher interviewed in Memoria Visual de Medellín, vividly described this area as once featuring swamps, mosquitoes, and occasional visits by individuals engaging in petty thefts like chicken or cattle.
During this early period however, there was already the Pontifical Bolivarian University, constructed a few years earlier in 1936 on the former ‘La Palestina’ estate. This development acted as a catalyst for the Employee Cooperative’s visionary project, which aimed to establish a residential community for the labour force of burgeoning textile companies in the city.
Conclusion
There we have it. As you can see, Medellín’s complex and rather remarkable history can be explored through the lens of its most influential neighborhoods. The story of El Poblado is almost poetic – a twist of fate that goes full circle – from the founding site of Spanish settlement, to then take the backseat to El Centro, to then become the in place to be within the Aburra Valley. El Centro’s role in Medellín’s story is complex yet integral, once the vibrant heart of the city’s industrial revolution and economic prosperity. Meanwhile, Laureles emerged in the mid-20th century as a meticulously planned district, prioritizing green spaces, thoughtful infrastructure, and a visionary approach to sustainable urban living.
